Keep your BMX in top shape
From dirt to street – your BMX takes a beating. Regular maintenance keeps your bike running smoothly and extends its lifespan. You don't need a workshop for it: a cloth, oil, and a pump will get you a long way.
Do I need to maintain my BMX?
A BMX takes a beating while riding. Regular maintenance will keep your bike running longer and ensure safer riding. Ask yourself these questions:
- Are your tires underinflated or do you often lose air?
- Is your brake pad rubbing against the rim or do you have insufficient braking power?
- Is your chain slack or do you hear strange noises when pedaling?
- Is your steering wheel crooked or does it shift while driving?
- Do you hear a creaking noise or feel play in bolts, cranks or wheels?
Can you answer yes to any of these questions?
Then it's time for maintenance. Below you'll find clear explanations and videos for each component.
Need a reminder about maintaining your BMX? Download the maintenance schedule to your calendar and receive automatic reminders. You can unsubscribe at any time.
Check tires
Correct tire pressure provides grip, speed, and control. Use a pump with a pressure gauge and stay within the maximum PSI/bar indicated on your tire.
General guideline on weight
- < 60 kg: 3.5 – 4.5 bar
- 60–80 kg: 4.5 – 5.5 bar
- 80 kg+: 5.5 – 6 bar (or slightly higher within tyre specification)
The heavier you are, the more pressure you need to avoid snakebites and rim damage.
Guideline per driving style
| Driving style | Recommended tire pressure | Weight tip |
|---|---|---|
| Street | 2.5 – 5.0 bar | Lighter = 2.5–4 bar • Heavier = 4–5 bar |
| Park | 4.5 – 6.5 bar | Lighter = 4.5–5 bar • Heavier = 5.5–6.5 bar |
| Dirt | 5.0 – 6.5 bar | Lighter ≈ 5 bar • Heavier = 6–6.5 bar |
| Flatland | 5.5 – 7.0 bar | As high as possible within band specification |
Street: when lower (2.5–3 bar)?
- Technical nose manuals & low-speed balance tricks
- Grinds/stalls where damping and grip are more important than speed
- Please note: increased risk of snakebites and reduced responsiveness to hard landings
Want to practice more? Check out BMX tricks for tips (beginner → advanced).
Removing the outer tire – step by step
Need to replace or patch a puncture on your BMX tire? Follow these steps to remove the outer tire from the rim.
Make sure the inner tube is deflated.
- Start at the valve – that is where you remove the outer tire first.
- Place the wheel with the valve on top of your thighs (as shown in the video) and point the valve as far away from you as possible.
- Pinch the outer tire toward the center of the rim, working toward the valve to create clearance.
- Push the tire forward and away from you, then pull up and toward you to get the bead over the rim.
- Place the band on the ground and push down further (as shown in the video).
- Push the valve from the outside in and remove the inner tube. Remove the other bead as well.
Done! The tire is loose; you can now patch or replace it.
Tire & inner tube back on the rim – step by step
How to reattach a BMX tire and inner tube to the rim – follow these steps:
- Once the first bead is on the rim, locate the valve hole.
- Insert the inner tube and push the valve through the rim.
- Place the remainder of the inner tube neatly between the tire and rim.
- Focus point: the valve.
- Opposite the valve, gradually press the second bead into the rim and work your way around to the valve.
- Only the part near the valve remains; place the wheel on your thighs with the valve directly in front of you.
- Pull/roll the tire toward you until the bead engages the rim. Ready to inflate.
Tip: Inflate slowly and check that the tire fits neatly on the rim edge everywhere.
Patching an inner tube
No air or a leak? This video shows you step-by-step how to patch your inner tube.
- What you need: tire levers, a patch kit (glue, sandpaper, patch) and a container of water.
- Find the hole: Inflate the inner tube, immerse it in water and watch where bubbles appear.
- Preparation: Clean and lightly sand the area around the hole.
- Apply glue: on a dry surface, slightly larger than the sticker.
- Let the glue dry: wait until the glue becomes dull (± 60 s).
- Stick & press: stick exactly over the hole and press evenly (± 5 min).
- Check: An orange border around the sticker indicates good adhesion.
- Pump up and drive.
Check brakes
Do you drive with brakes? Keep them in top condition for safety and control.
Check cables
- Squeeze the lever: does it feel smooth?
- Rough or creaking? Clean the cable and lightly lubricate it.
- Fraying/cracks in outer cable = replace.
Cleaning the brake surface
- You'll need: a clean cloth and brake cleaner/degreaser.
- Do not use grease, otherwise the brakes will work less well.
- Degreasing: Clean the braking surface of the rim.
- Prepare cloth: Spray degreaser onto a clean cloth (not your chain cloth).
- Wipe the rim: Wipe with firm pressure; the cloth will become visibly dirtier.
Adjusting brake pads – quick & easy
- Loosen: Loosen the brake pad and align it with the braking surface (not against the tire).
- Positioning: Squeeze the brake lever so that the block is stable against the rim.
- Tighten: ¼ turn at a time, checking that it remains straight.
Adjusting brake levers
- Loosen: use 5mm Allen key.
- Position: Stand directly above your bike; place the lever under your outstretched fingers.
- Repeat: for the other side.
- Tighten: 1/4 turn at a time. Firmly, but not too tight.
Tip: Securely fasten but still allow for flexibility in the event of a fall to prevent breakage.
Adjusting brake pressure – step by step
- To loosen the cable: loosen the brake cable clamp bolt (counterclockwise).
- Press the blocks: both at the same time against the rim; create space for cable tension.
- Cable tight: pull out slack and fix ± 50%.
- Test & Adjust: Feel the braking point; if it's not right, readjust.
- Tighten: clamp bolt permanently.
- Fine-tuning: barrel adjuster on the lever (and if necessary at the claw).
- Securing: Lock nut against the lever/claw to prevent loosening.
Straighten the steering wheel
- Loosen the tuning bolts (counterclockwise, a quarter turn).
- Front wheel against a fixed object; straighten the handlebars.
- Tighten the tuning bolts crosswise (¼ turn at a time). Tighten = tight .
Steering wheel shifting? Adjust the stem and top cap properly.
- Check top cap: front/back have equal space.
- Alignment: Ensure the top cap and tuning surfaces are flat and horizontal.
- Tightening: Crosswise ¼ turn at a time (6 mm Allen key).
Replacing handles
- Tools needed: knife, hammer, flathead screwdriver, new handles, bar ends, brake cleaner/hairspray.
- Don't: Do not use WD40/oil/grease (it will come loose).
- Old bar end: pry loose.
- Old grip: cutting layer by layer (away from you).
- Installation: Apply brake cleaner/hairspray to the grip and handlebars; installs quickly and dries rock-solid.
- Bar ends: place at a right angle and tap tight; leave straight.
Adjusting the headset
- Check clearance with front brake on and fore/aft movement.
- Loose tuning bolts (6 mm).
- Tighten the top cap in small steps (5 mm) until all play is gone but the steering wheel turns smoothly.
- Tighten the tuning bolts crosswise (¼ turn at a time).
Tensioning the chain
- Check that the wheel is straight in the frame (left/right clearance is equal).
- Loosen the axle nuts.
- Straighten the wheel and adjust the chain tension: lightly compress, do not chatter.
- Tightening: alternate ¼ turns left/right, keeping the wheel straight.
- Double-check tension and run the chain backwards as a test.
Cleaning and lubricating the chain
Keep your chain clean for smooth pedaling and less wear.
- Wipe regularly with a dry cloth.
- Apply a few drops of oil occasionally (not a thick grease, as it attracts dirt).
- Riding in the rain? Dry the chain and apply a drop of oil to each link to prevent rust and reduce chain breakage.
For this purpose, use our High Speed Bearing Oil – thin, penetrates well and does not leave a sticky layer.
Check nuts and bolts
Check for loose nuts and bolts monthly. Focus on the handlebars, wheel axles, and cranks. Tight = tight . A multi-tool helps ensure you don't forget anything.
Protect bearings
Don't use a pressure washer (it washes away grease). A creaking or rough feeling? Remove the wheels; clean, lubricate, or replace the bearings.
Clean & dry stables
Store your BMX in a dry place to prevent rust. After rain or mud, wipe it down with a cloth.
Ready for your next session
These checks and how-tos will keep your BMX in top condition for longer and ensure safer riding. Want to practice? Check out BMX tricks (beginner → advanced).
Also check out our protection – better safe than sorry.

